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HPI Savage Tips, Mods, and Fixes
[Savage Info] [Savage Hop-Ups] [Savage Mods] [Savage Pics]Below are a few modifications that can, should, and in some cases perhaps should not be done to your Savage in the quest for improved performance, power, adjustability, handling, durability, or appearance. More will be added as time goes on, the newer ones will be at the top of the page.
Upright/Hub Carrier Swap
This one is basic and most people know about it, but it's still important.Check out the upright on the outer end of your Savage's suspension arms. See the "ear" where the tie rod attaches? Sometimes during hard bashing/crashing, that ear can break off. It's inconvenient, but it doesn't need to be a day-ender. Why? It's reversible! Just swap it with an upright from the other side of the truck. The broken ear will be toward the front and unneeded, so you're back in business in the amount of time it takes to swap uprights.
Tie-Rod Ends Popping Off
This one doesn't cause any damage, generally, but it's annoying and there's never a good time to pop a tie rod end, whether you're racing or bashing.Over time, tie rod ends get stretched out due to the constant pivoting on the ball and the considerable loading put on them by jumping, landing, turning, and everything else. As they stretch, their grip on the ball loosens and the likelihood they'll part ways with said pivot ball becomes higher and higher as time goes on. You can't prevent this stretching, but you can create a situation where if they do pop off the ball, they'll still function until you get a chance to replace the rod end.
What to do? After the tie rod is attached, simply install a washer between the screw head and the pivot ball once the rod end has been installed. See the before and after pics below. Easy, cheap, and very effective!
CV Axle Pin Problems
This isn't too common on Savages since few people run constant-velocity driveshafts, but it can be a real problem as you can tell by the pictures. Not something want to happen during a bash session or a race!
All that happened is the pin on my Hot Bodies axle came loose, but obviously bad things can happen. Worst-case, it'll come all the way out and get lost, then you're screwed until you get a replacement. Fortunately for me, mine didn't come ALL the way out, only far enough to start grinding on the TVP cross-brace as the shaft rotated, so I was able to re-use it.
The solution? Always threadlock the grub screw, naturally, but if possible install a second grub screw on the other side of the axle end, assuming the hole is there and tapped for it. The next step is to remove the pin and in the middle grind a shallow notch into which the the grub screw can register. Just be sure to have the pin rotated correctly as you slide it into the axle so the grub screw can contact the notch. The last thing to do is to find some heat-shrink tubing that's just larger than the outside diameter of the housing, cut it to length, and then shrink it down to really lock that pin into place. I did all these things and while the heat-shrink tubing finally fell off after a couple gallons of fuel went through the truck, the pin never came out.
GPM Titanium Dogbones and Universals
I'm not saying all GPM titanium dogbones and universals are bad, but I sure am saying that the ones my friend and I tried were junk! The pins holding together the universals broke and the manufacturer told us they were for show only, not to be actually used. Whatever. And the titanium dogbones weren't much better:
We had much better luck after going back to HPI dogbones, Hot Bodies CVDs, and Kippster dogbones. Now I'm eager to try Fast Lane Machines beefy dogbones, but my HPI HD 'bones have been holding up well, so it's hard to find an excuse to upgrade.
Wheel Hex Problems
This one isn't pretty or glamorous, but neither is rounding out a wheel hex in the middle of a bashing session! Many of us have been there, unfortunately. You hit the gas, the engine revs, but the truck only has front- or rear-wheel-drive and goes nowhere fast. Dogbone? Possibly, but check those wheels! If you don't keep the wheel nuts quite tight on the Savage your wheels can become loose which almost guarantees a stripped out hex. After it's happened, about the only thing you can do is replace the wheel, which often means replacing the tire as well, and since both are sold in pairs, it gets expensive!The best solution is to simply keep your nuts tight! I use a little threadlock on the axle stubs before tightening the nut to make sure it doesn't back out. Also, keep a few extra wheel nuts on hand and replace them every so often. That nylon insert doesn't last forever and once it's worn out, your lock-nut turns into just another nut.
Another solution that is more effective before stripping a wheel's hex than after, is to attach the aluminum hex to the wheel itself with JB Weld (two-part epoxy you can mix together to form a very sticky, very durable substance).
Now that the hexes are fixed to the wheels, you're pretty well assured the hex won't strip out the wheel! Sure, once you get new wheels you'll need another set of hexes, but they're a lot cheaper than replacing wheels and tires. It's possible to do this procedure to a stripped wheel, but it's not as effective as the JB Weld has fewer hard edges to grip. I've done it and it lasted a while, but eventually the hex came free of the wheel.
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Copyright © 2007 Bruce Johnson